head wound.
superbowl sunday, i posted the following tweet/facebook update: Chris sent a dude to the ER and he feels real bad.
let’s backtrack.
before the big game, i wanted to surf. with no swell to speak of, i hit scripps in the early afternoon to “get wet,” or paddle around and grab an ankle slapper or two.
being superbowl sunday, i anticipated a small crowd in the water. silly me, it was packed. longboards, shortboards, standup boards, kayaks, dolphins, and, two swiss tourists (learning to surf.)
enter the big-boned kahuna on his 9′6″ hobie.
dropping into my second wave of the day, i did NOT see them (on the inside.) once i spotted the swiss surfers, surprised they were not moving, i bailed off the wave. in the process, my board got away from me and wacked one of the guys in the head. blood started pouring. oh, f#ck.
how did this happen? and, so fast? on such a small day? it reminded me of a buddy who broke his ankle snowboarding, in a lift line.
feeling terribly guilty, and afraid his buddy was going to choke me with his leash, i ditched my board and ran to get help. stumbling down the beach (sweating balls in my wetsuit,) i learned an interesting lesson. while i possess strong endurance in the water, running on land, not so much.
eventually, both parties ended up at the lifeguard tower and, like a scene out of beach patrol: san diego,
our swiss visitor was cleaned up, bandaged, and sent to the e.r. with a minor head wound. in the process, i exchanged info with the dude and offered to cover any medical expenses. the supervising lifeguard was shocked by the gesture (apparently, “most people just take off.”)
in the name of ocean karma (and guilt,) not my trip.
at the end of the day, he was covered, received four stitches/painkillers, and looks forward to getting back in the water.
in return, i assured him, i’d go on a jog that day.








Paulo
Tuesday, 3rd February 2009 at 10:40 pm
holy crap, that is scary. good job on the hospitality!
robert young
Wednesday, 4th February 2009 at 12:42 am
Dude, you are a man. I’m glad to say I would do the same because that’s how I was raised, etc., but I’ve got to say they broke the mold when they made you (and me).
Ralph Pacheco
Wednesday, 4th February 2009 at 6:45 am
Swiss Surfers! Chris, there is no need to make these people look like Swiss Cheese